Sunday, April 25, 2010
La Feria de abril es la vida! Ole!
"En primavera la sangre es altera" or in English, "in the Springtime the blood is high and running". Most people utter these words when the weather starts to improve and the locals take to the streets to live "la vida loca" and forget about the monotony of the normal workweek. It's now April 25th, I think we can say the spring/summer festival season is underway. Carnivals, costumes, and most importantly, "vamos a bailar" ("let's dance"). In Spain, "las fiestas" (or the parties) are a deeply ingrained cultural mainstay that rejuvenates the soul of every person that participates in the merrymaking . There is a certain art to everything you do to prepare for a fiesta in Spain. Starting with preparing the food, sewing the costumes, and building the floats, all the way until the finish when the last sangria, churro, beer or tapa is tossed into the corner. Spain is famous for its fiestas because almost every Saint has a celebration replete with special foods and customs. Each city and town wants to recognize its historical importance with a production of some sort. I was lucky enough to spend the last few days at "La feria de abril" in Sevilla. Sevilla is the fourth biggest city in Spain and the Capital of Andalusia (one of the biggest communities). If you mention Sevilla to a Spaniard, almost always, the first cultural event that comes to mind is the "feria de abril" (the fair/carnival).
Every year, two weeks after their Holy week celebration (which is also famous), the citizens of the 4th biggest city of Spain spend a week partying on large fairgrounds, dancing traditional dances, eating with friends and most importantly, enjoying life and relaxing. It's one of a kind. Southern Spain is very different from the rest of Spain and especially from the North. When most people think of Spanish people and Spanish tourism, they imagine flamenco, tapas, bullfights, religious emblems, dark hair and dark eyes, olives, and lots of sun. "Los andaluzes" in Sevilla and all across the province as they are called are incredibly kind people. They are very open to international travelers and want outsiders to partake in their traditional dance and drink. They are passionate, excited, and animated. They speak "castellano" or "spanish" in a very unique way with an intensely strong accent in which they drop the "s" in words and shorten many common phrases. The truth is that many people have trouble understanding them. I can also be included in that group, however, it was "vale la pena" or worth it to put forth that extra effort to understand these people. I had to listen more carefully but their sounds make them unique. I could not fathom missing the chance to partake in this incredibly important culutural event because I was a bit nervous to practice my "andalu".
For 5-6 days, los sevillanos hang out in "casetas" or little houses that are actually elaborately decorated tents complete with bars and tables where different groups of people and societies (and organizations/businesses) or "socios" spend all year paying money to enjoy the benefits of these parties. Each street on the fairgrounds is named after a famous bullfighter and lights and other festive decorations are strung up all around so the "ambiente" or atmosphere is very pleasurable (even as it gets dark). Each party tries to be more elite than the other. Most people are dressed very elegantly in their "sunday best" and looking very "pijo" or "posh" which also adds to the atmosphere. I felt like I was in a movie. As an "extranjero" or foreigner, you mostly rely on obtaining an "enchufe" which literally means to be "plugged in" or "hooked up"(in other words, know somebody who knows another person who will let you come in) as a way of gaining entrance to this rockin revelry. It's all politics but the negotiations are worth it. And it's important to note that there are over 1,000 of these tents. Some serve copious amounts of food while others are more relaxed and look like the basement of your grandparents house. One thing remains the same, "las sevillanas" or the traditional flamenco dancing can be found in each and every one as well as some type of drinking or socializing. Basically, it's open drinking and eating in the fairgrounds for a week straight. People stay out partying until 8 or 9 AM in the morning, sleep for 5 or 6 hours and then do it all over again. With people drenched in sweat from the intense heat and heavy costumes along with the constant mix of drinking (a drink called rebujitos is the most commonly consumed; It's 7up and white wine) and dancing, the experience can be overwhelming. As I walked around, the smell of fried fish and gazpacho (a cold soup) made my mouth salivate. Every Spanish city has a festival. So bystanders may say, "it's just another party like we have here in our city but in a different part of Spain", however, I disagree. It's not everywhere you can see Men riding around on horses with their children dressed accordingly and then hop in a horse carriage ride while dancing flamenco and chugging sherry (refined white wine that comes from jerez de la frontera). If you want to experience Spain, go to the magical feria. If you didn't know, now you do..... OLE!!
Sunday, April 18, 2010
La Quiniela, La pasión, and the clásico
Hey sports fans,
I'm here to remind you of two things: 1. the spanish soccer (football) league is not only the best in the world but also the best in europe. 2. the world cup starts in less than two months in South Africa. 3. Barcelona is one of the greatest football teams in the world (even though I refuse to be a "chaquetero" (or coatturner, someone who switches affiliations, ill never stop liking real madrid).
I come from a country where most kids grow up wanting to be like terrell owens or Brian Urlaucher. After living in Europe for a reasonable amount of time, I can tell you that there is a reason that soccer aka football is the most popular sport in the world. Every person has a favourite club team. A favourite national player. The 10 yr old kids I teach have memorized the national team roster of "la seleccion espanola". How many 9 yr olds in the USA know who Landon Donovan, Clint Dempsey, and Tim Howard are? Mention the names Villa, Casillas or Iniesta and the likely question you'll get from a little kid is, "Is he okay", "He's not hurt, is he?", "Did he score this weekend?". Spaniards, Brits, Italians, Germans, Dutch, even Turkish people take time every Sunday to watch their country's weekly league competition. In Spain, you can play the legal state gambling game called the "quiniela" every week. You fill out a card where you predict each game's result by putting a "1" for a home win, "2" for an away win or "X" for a draw. If you predict more than 10 of the 15 correctly, you are entitled to a payout. You can check how your predictions have fared by walking into a cafeteria, bar, or any storefront/ restaurant, and then proceed to look for the closest television. More likely than not, you'll see an "abuelo" (grandfather) next to a punk kid watching the wrapup for that week's jornada (weekend timetable).
So why isnt soccer, a game called the world's most popular sport,more popular in the world's leading country? The USA has some of the best athletes in the world. Why don't more want to play soccer? I don't know the answers. I do know that The U.S.'s new league, the MLS (Major League soccer) has become a legitimate league and each year has attracted more star players but still lacks the passion of the bigger European leagues. It bores many champion league (europe's super cup) fans not to mention the followers of la liga (in Spain) and the Premier League (in England). However, the U.S. national team surprised many people this past summer with a big win over spain (the #1 team in the world) followed by a fantastic effort against Brasil (a top soccer country) in the Confederations Cup), a warmup tournament to the World cup in South Africa.
If you can jive and dish about soccer in this world, you can strike up a conversation with virtually anyone. Language barries and issues aside, it's a support that unites millions of strangers. There are political implications surroudning matches in Northern Ireland, Rwanda, and Turkey. There are scandals, players, and incredible stadiums that people become mad about (enthusiastic and angry). In this sport, there are no helmets, no bats, and no hoops. You have your feet, your skills, and a goal to shoot the ball into. It's a beautiful game that isn't expensive to play. Maybe it's not as posh as rugby, golf, tennis, or polo but it's easy to teach and fun to learn.
Barcelona v. Real Madrid. El clásico. Los galacticos v. los catalanes. This rivalry is one of the greatest in the history of sports. Twice a year, the two biggest cities square off in a match with the best players in the world. Marriages and friends are broken for at least a day. Citizens within the same country hate each other. Two teams play as hard as they can against each other, usually to determine the lead in the league. It's bragging rights. This is part of the culture. If you don't have interest in the game, you don't understand your country. Ask a Spaniard if he or she has ever seen the world's biggest game (the super bowl), and they'd say "hell, no". "I don't even understand "futbol americano".", is what a local would tell you. Ask them to recite the last 10 results of el clásico and you'll get the winners of each game plus the scores. A country with soccer specific daily newspapers, televised games every day, and a culture who currently has the numnber 1 national team in the world, and "futbolistas" who make way more than NFL players only have to worry about one thing, "Eres del Madrid o del Barca?". Are you a Madrid or Barcelona Supporter?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S58rstMhKK8
I'm here to remind you of two things: 1. the spanish soccer (football) league is not only the best in the world but also the best in europe. 2. the world cup starts in less than two months in South Africa. 3. Barcelona is one of the greatest football teams in the world (even though I refuse to be a "chaquetero" (or coatturner, someone who switches affiliations, ill never stop liking real madrid).
I come from a country where most kids grow up wanting to be like terrell owens or Brian Urlaucher. After living in Europe for a reasonable amount of time, I can tell you that there is a reason that soccer aka football is the most popular sport in the world. Every person has a favourite club team. A favourite national player. The 10 yr old kids I teach have memorized the national team roster of "la seleccion espanola". How many 9 yr olds in the USA know who Landon Donovan, Clint Dempsey, and Tim Howard are? Mention the names Villa, Casillas or Iniesta and the likely question you'll get from a little kid is, "Is he okay", "He's not hurt, is he?", "Did he score this weekend?". Spaniards, Brits, Italians, Germans, Dutch, even Turkish people take time every Sunday to watch their country's weekly league competition. In Spain, you can play the legal state gambling game called the "quiniela" every week. You fill out a card where you predict each game's result by putting a "1" for a home win, "2" for an away win or "X" for a draw. If you predict more than 10 of the 15 correctly, you are entitled to a payout. You can check how your predictions have fared by walking into a cafeteria, bar, or any storefront/ restaurant, and then proceed to look for the closest television. More likely than not, you'll see an "abuelo" (grandfather) next to a punk kid watching the wrapup for that week's jornada (weekend timetable).
So why isnt soccer, a game called the world's most popular sport,more popular in the world's leading country? The USA has some of the best athletes in the world. Why don't more want to play soccer? I don't know the answers. I do know that The U.S.'s new league, the MLS (Major League soccer) has become a legitimate league and each year has attracted more star players but still lacks the passion of the bigger European leagues. It bores many champion league (europe's super cup) fans not to mention the followers of la liga (in Spain) and the Premier League (in England). However, the U.S. national team surprised many people this past summer with a big win over spain (the #1 team in the world) followed by a fantastic effort against Brasil (a top soccer country) in the Confederations Cup), a warmup tournament to the World cup in South Africa.
If you can jive and dish about soccer in this world, you can strike up a conversation with virtually anyone. Language barries and issues aside, it's a support that unites millions of strangers. There are political implications surroudning matches in Northern Ireland, Rwanda, and Turkey. There are scandals, players, and incredible stadiums that people become mad about (enthusiastic and angry). In this sport, there are no helmets, no bats, and no hoops. You have your feet, your skills, and a goal to shoot the ball into. It's a beautiful game that isn't expensive to play. Maybe it's not as posh as rugby, golf, tennis, or polo but it's easy to teach and fun to learn.
Barcelona v. Real Madrid. El clásico. Los galacticos v. los catalanes. This rivalry is one of the greatest in the history of sports. Twice a year, the two biggest cities square off in a match with the best players in the world. Marriages and friends are broken for at least a day. Citizens within the same country hate each other. Two teams play as hard as they can against each other, usually to determine the lead in the league. It's bragging rights. This is part of the culture. If you don't have interest in the game, you don't understand your country. Ask a Spaniard if he or she has ever seen the world's biggest game (the super bowl), and they'd say "hell, no". "I don't even understand "futbol americano".", is what a local would tell you. Ask them to recite the last 10 results of el clásico and you'll get the winners of each game plus the scores. A country with soccer specific daily newspapers, televised games every day, and a culture who currently has the numnber 1 national team in the world, and "futbolistas" who make way more than NFL players only have to worry about one thing, "Eres del Madrid o del Barca?". Are you a Madrid or Barcelona Supporter?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S58rstMhKK8
Friday, April 16, 2010
The Spanish Dream Continues
Greetings,
Since I've been lacking in the correspondence area since my journey back to Spain (around last September) happened, I decided to create a blog to keep in touch with friends and family and write about whatever I fancy. Because of my Irish heritage, I have the gift of gab. If some of these posts become a bit lengthy, you've been forewarned. I first became obsessed with Spain in 2006 when I lived and studied in one of the best cities in the world, Madrid. Right now, I live and work in Aragon, Spain. I live in the fifth biggest city in all of Spain (in the nw section) called Zaragoza. "The land of the mannnoosss". Think directly in between Madrid and Barcelona. But please note I'm still obsessed with Real Madrid F.C. For those of you who don't know, there are 17 communities (or comunidades in Spain). Each community has 3-4 provinces which adds up to around 51 provinces.
My work consists of teaching English to kids and adults of all levels while simultaneously improving my Spanish. I also dabble in a bit of translation and consulting with Spanish to English texts. So, why would an American lad want to travel and live in a foreign country like Spain? Spain actually means "the land of the rabbits". Well, I studied Spanish back in the states so I don't have any problems communicating, however, my goal is to live, talk, eat, and breathe like a true Spaniard. This doesn't always come easy since I have a "guiri" accent and need to learn a lot of "refranes, frases hechas , and dichos" (expressions, refrains, and sayings). Basically, I love Spain (and "castellano" which refers to the original Spanish they speak here) and want to share the information and stories I've accumulated with people who are unfamiliar with this fantastic country. For example, there are many people in the USA who think Spain is in Mexico or can't differentiate a Spaniard from a Colombian from a Cuban and so on. So maybe I'm a poser and trendy now because I have a blog. I don't care. I like to write and I like Spain. What's so intriguing about this country? How about the food (paella, croquetas, tortilla de patatas, gazpacho, fresh ham and bread), the people (Antonio Banderas, Penelope Cruz, Rafael Nadal, Pablo Picasso, Miguel Cervaantes, etc), the "ambiente" (the enviornment, the feeling you get when you walk into a Spanish bar or restaurant), the sports (football aka soccer, tennis, basketball, the libations (wine from rioja or ribera del duero, cava aka spanish champagne, and beer like mahou, ambar, and cruz campo oh and don't forget about sherry-from Jerez in Andalucia). You name it, I love it.
I don't want this to be a travelbook or some idiot rambling on about how he does "chupitos" (shots) every week while he travels with a bunch of fellow countrymen, I want people to feel the vibe of the country through the lens of an expatriate. This is a country where there are 4-5 different languages within the borders (catala, euskara, gallego, andaluz (haha), and of course castellano), where each community feels like you've traveled into another country. Every person has a different accent and rhythm to his or her life. The spanish people enjoy living life. They are hard workers and care about the well being of others. This country has been hit hard by the international crisis. Here in Europe, one economist has coined the phrase "PIGS" to refer to Portugal, Ireland, Greece and Spain since they have been the countries most affected by the recession. But you wouldn't notice if you were walking along "calle Coso" in Zaragoza because Spanish people could be "dando un paseo" aka going for a walk or meeting to take a "cafe solo" with a friend or colleague. The pulse of this country is strong and this American will attempt to get a better grasp on more than just Sangria, Flamenco, and the Running of The Bulls........
Since I've been lacking in the correspondence area since my journey back to Spain (around last September) happened, I decided to create a blog to keep in touch with friends and family and write about whatever I fancy. Because of my Irish heritage, I have the gift of gab. If some of these posts become a bit lengthy, you've been forewarned. I first became obsessed with Spain in 2006 when I lived and studied in one of the best cities in the world, Madrid. Right now, I live and work in Aragon, Spain. I live in the fifth biggest city in all of Spain (in the nw section) called Zaragoza. "The land of the mannnoosss". Think directly in between Madrid and Barcelona. But please note I'm still obsessed with Real Madrid F.C. For those of you who don't know, there are 17 communities (or comunidades in Spain). Each community has 3-4 provinces which adds up to around 51 provinces.
My work consists of teaching English to kids and adults of all levels while simultaneously improving my Spanish. I also dabble in a bit of translation and consulting with Spanish to English texts. So, why would an American lad want to travel and live in a foreign country like Spain? Spain actually means "the land of the rabbits". Well, I studied Spanish back in the states so I don't have any problems communicating, however, my goal is to live, talk, eat, and breathe like a true Spaniard. This doesn't always come easy since I have a "guiri" accent and need to learn a lot of "refranes, frases hechas , and dichos" (expressions, refrains, and sayings). Basically, I love Spain (and "castellano" which refers to the original Spanish they speak here) and want to share the information and stories I've accumulated with people who are unfamiliar with this fantastic country. For example, there are many people in the USA who think Spain is in Mexico or can't differentiate a Spaniard from a Colombian from a Cuban and so on. So maybe I'm a poser and trendy now because I have a blog. I don't care. I like to write and I like Spain. What's so intriguing about this country? How about the food (paella, croquetas, tortilla de patatas, gazpacho, fresh ham and bread), the people (Antonio Banderas, Penelope Cruz, Rafael Nadal, Pablo Picasso, Miguel Cervaantes, etc), the "ambiente" (the enviornment, the feeling you get when you walk into a Spanish bar or restaurant), the sports (football aka soccer, tennis, basketball, the libations (wine from rioja or ribera del duero, cava aka spanish champagne, and beer like mahou, ambar, and cruz campo oh and don't forget about sherry-from Jerez in Andalucia). You name it, I love it.
I don't want this to be a travelbook or some idiot rambling on about how he does "chupitos" (shots) every week while he travels with a bunch of fellow countrymen, I want people to feel the vibe of the country through the lens of an expatriate. This is a country where there are 4-5 different languages within the borders (catala, euskara, gallego, andaluz (haha), and of course castellano), where each community feels like you've traveled into another country. Every person has a different accent and rhythm to his or her life. The spanish people enjoy living life. They are hard workers and care about the well being of others. This country has been hit hard by the international crisis. Here in Europe, one economist has coined the phrase "PIGS" to refer to Portugal, Ireland, Greece and Spain since they have been the countries most affected by the recession. But you wouldn't notice if you were walking along "calle Coso" in Zaragoza because Spanish people could be "dando un paseo" aka going for a walk or meeting to take a "cafe solo" with a friend or colleague. The pulse of this country is strong and this American will attempt to get a better grasp on more than just Sangria, Flamenco, and the Running of The Bulls........
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